tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53029934622473636712024-03-12T17:52:39.317-07:00Glimpses of Garment Processingnuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-59062099599669740762012-09-26T00:52:00.002-07:002012-09-26T00:52:53.067-07:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Georgia","serif"; font-size: 23.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="http://www.denimhelp.com/kmno4-spray/"><span style="color: #3f6cc0; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">KMnO4 Spray</span></a></span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFuEneGklzr_a6eEAZMXGrV1WPTBawFmzQywL1Ue3lhfSO0VkXU3lfdhkQixSlPi1GpvHAg3l1-amfk7skCU8pClspcFZMI3zVHRmpX81Mhlh4xnlTsslrCFu8SulpQA4s3bJ1glVPN8ha/s1600/kmno4-spray.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFuEneGklzr_a6eEAZMXGrV1WPTBawFmzQywL1Ue3lhfSO0VkXU3lfdhkQixSlPi1GpvHAg3l1-amfk7skCU8pClspcFZMI3zVHRmpX81Mhlh4xnlTsslrCFu8SulpQA4s3bJ1glVPN8ha/s1600/kmno4-spray.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFuEneGklzr_a6eEAZMXGrV1WPTBawFmzQywL1Ue3lhfSO0VkXU3lfdhkQixSlPi1GpvHAg3l1-amfk7skCU8pClspcFZMI3zVHRmpX81Mhlh4xnlTsslrCFu8SulpQA4s3bJ1glVPN8ha/s1600/kmno4-spray.png" /></a><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Potassium permanganate
spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One
important thing about potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a
sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate
solution is sprayed on blasted area of jeans garment with the help of normal
spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on garment when fresh
and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after
potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its
colors completely then it is considered to ready for next process.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta
bisulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are
available in market for neutralization process like sodium meta bisulfate
selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Potassium permanganate spray in best is done in specific spray
booths, where rubber dummies are installed for holding garments. Garments are
mounted on the dummies and air is filled so the garment is full fit exposed.
Specific dummies are used for different sizes and styles, like for kids,
men’s, trousers, jackets, shirts etc. The booths are fitted with proper air
exhaust system. This system leads the spray to treatment room where the
chemical mixed air is usually passed through the water showers. Potassium
permanganate is dissolved in water and the clean air is blown to open. Shower
water is further treated with mild quantities of neutralizer before adding to
main drain. But where the potassium permanganate spray is used in low
concentrations then there is now need to treat shower water. This mild
potassium permanganate mixed water is rather useful for water reservoirs to
keep the water clean and germs free.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Potassium permanganate spray concentrations ranges form .25 gm
per liter to 15.00 grams per liter depending to required results and fabric
types. Usually indigo died fabrics are treated with low concentrations whereas
Black Sulfur Fabric requires high concentrations to treat with. Sulfur is not
much affected with potassium permanganate and hence requires high
concentrations and even sometime multiple spray operations. It is more
effective to add potassium permanganate brushing to aid the spray effect. It is
very important to equip the operator with gloves, gas mask and gaggles. Long
time breathing in potassium permanganate spray may cause health complications
so proper preventive measures are to be taken for this department.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Garments are mounted on air filled rubber dummies and chemical
is sprayed on blasted areas. The variables in spray process are as follow]<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><b><i><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Distance of spray gun to garment</span></i></b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">- less
distance will give more defined and sharp effect where as distant spray will
result to more mild and merged effect. Distance ranges form one foot to two and
a half foot.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><b><i><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Air to Water Ratio of Gun</span></i></b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">- this is to be set very
carefully. Low air pressure possibly will through KMnO4 drops on garment
resulting to bright white spots whereas high pressure will produce very low
bright effect spray effect to areas where it is not required.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><b><i><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Potassium Permanganate Solution Concentration</span></i></b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">- of
course, this will control the extent to brightness.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><u><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">KMnO4 Brushing</span></u></b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In KMnO4 Paint, solution of potassium permanganate is applied
to garment with paint brush rather to spray with gun. The effect is quite
different to spray as we discussed in last that spray is only to aid the sand
blasting effect and is done in addition whereas the potassium permanganate
paint is itself a process to give its own effect. The solution of potassium
permanganate ranging from 0.10 gm per liter to 5.00 gm per liter is used in
normal productions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In
usual, it is done with regular paint brushes or the brushes are modified by
cutting hairs in different shapes to produce new styles. Rather towels,
sponges, straw bunches or other objects are also used to create effects. What
it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with towel.
Towel dipped in solution are drawn over the garment very lightly. This produces
random effect and looks great with dark washes in contrast.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Arial;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;">Courtesy: Denim Help</span></o:p></div>
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nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-71752791318874815582010-09-01T07:23:00.000-07:002010-09-01T23:35:27.614-07:00Garment Dyeing - Part-3 - Chemicals and Auxiliary Chmicals - Selection and Analysis<div style="text-align: left;">In garment processing we are using a lot of basic chemicals, auxiliary chemicals, enzymes and natural resources such as water. All the above said ingredients play its own important role.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Water</b> plays the key role in any textile wet processing. The quality of water decides the quality of your product and rework percentage. In all climatic condition no water quality would remain same. Rainy season will bring more turbidity and mineral content in running water (river) and more soft and less saline water in bore wells. Providing a good quality water for processing is the basic requirement for any processing unit. <a href="http://www.thesmarttime.com/processing/water-softening-plant.html">How to test and treat water and make it suitable for dyeing</a> is a separate line of discussion.</li>
</ul><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><ul style="text-align: justify;"><li style="text-align: left;"><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=textprocguid-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B00028PDO8&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><b>Basic Chemicals:</b> In garment processing we are using the following basic chemicals. The purity of these chemicals is also very important from the point of dyestuff behavior and economy. Some examples are:</li>
<div style="text-align: left;"></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><ul><li><b>Common Salt</b> - Common salt is used in reactive, direct and sulphur dyeing processes as a dye exhausting agent. The high impurities present in salt will precipitate on the garment being processed during the addition alkali (soda or caustic) in to the dyeing bath. The unwanted metal ions present in the contaminated salt, like Calcium, Magnesium, Manganese, Iron, Aluminium etc some time replaces the metal ions present in the dyestuff and make the shade appear duller and different in tone. By using a good quality salt like Galuber's salt (Na2SO4) or pure vacuum salt (common salt purified), would save you from these problems. While selecting a basic chemical, buy it from reputed manufacturer and ask them provide you purity certificates. If necessary you can also <a href="http://www.thesmarttime.com/testing/testing-raw-materials.html">test the purity of chemicals</a>.</li>
<li><b>Soda Ash</b> - Purity testing of soda ash is very important because the concentration decides the correct pH requirement for fixation of reactive dyes.</li>
<li><b>Hydrogen Peroxide</b> - Hydrogen Peroxide is being sold under two concentrations viz., 35% and 50%. According to the strength the dosage in bleaching varies. Being water like adulteration very easily possible and this decides the batch whiteness. If whiteness between varies, then the final shade also will vary in tone and depth.</li>
<li><b>Acetic Acid </b>- Acetic Acid is used as a neutralizing agent in two stages of processing, viz., after bleaching and after dyeing. Both stages are very important to achieve the required results. Improper neutralization before dyeing leads to patchy dyeing and after dyeing results in fastness related problems and tonal variations of many shades.</li>
</ul></ul><div style="text-align: left;"></div>
<li style="text-align: left;"><b>Auxiliary Chemicals </b>- inclusion of too many products for processing leads to loading of effluent and creates complications in treatment. Moreover poor quality products purchased only with the aim to reduce cost of production ends up in many quality problems. If you have a simple analytical lab you can <a href="http://www.thesmarttime.com/testing/testing-raw-materials.html">test all auxiliary chemicals</a> at your end itself as a standard practice. We can suggest you the optimum number of essential products for any type of dyeing or finishing.</li>
<ul><ul></ul></ul></ul>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-13632994971886227182010-09-01T04:48:00.000-07:002010-09-01T04:56:00.586-07:00Garment Dyeing - Part-2 - Dyestuff Selection - Shade matching<b>Different dyes for different colors/effects:</b><br />
<br />
<b>Selecting Dyes</b><br />
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There are several different types of dye available for garment dyeing including reactives, pigments, and direct dyes. Dyes are selected based on the fabric (or combination of fabrics) to be dyed, the garment type, and the desired color, consistency, texture, and feel of the finished garments. <br />
<br />
The type of dye selected can also impact the shade range and light fastness of the finished garment. Therefore, it is important to consider the function of the finished garment. For example, light fastness would be an important consideration for summer tanks to be worn in the sun consistently, whereas, light fastness may not be an issue for under garments.<br />
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For your information, following is a table describing some of the factors to be taken into consideration when selecting dye types. <br />
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We would be happy to consult with you when it comes time to dye your garments!<br />
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The table gives fairly a working idea for dyestuff selection. But this is not the final. For example if you opt to select reactive dyes, you still have to make your correct decision which group of reactive dyestuff you have to select.<br />
<br />
There are cold brand (room temperature dyeing), Vinylsulphone, Bifunctional, High Exhaust and so on. Similar is the case with direct and pigment dyes. We have pleasure in advising for proper selection of dyestuff with respect to quality, economy and application ease.nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-12193323758596450212010-09-01T04:05:00.000-07:002010-09-01T04:13:21.097-07:00Garment Dyeing - Part-1 - Check List for PFD garments<b>Well prepared is half dyed!</b> - this is a dyers' slogan.<br />
<br />
Quality Assurance is a defense mechanism that protects us from flaws and problems that may sprout out after dyeing and finishing. A thorough inspection by qualified people will save a lot. We at Nuchem suggest our clients to make the following tests before starting Garment Dyeing.<br />
<br />
<b>What you need to know before dyeing your garments?:</b><br />
<br />
• Some dyeing processes may cause unseen garment flaws to become apparent subsequent to processing; such as pin holes, bad seams, and optical spots. As these flaws are inherent in the garments prior to processing, which the dyer cannot be responsible for.<br />
Because each garment costs more and job dyers are very much responsible for any fault after processing, a pre-inspection of greige garments in a dark room equipped with UV lights may proves effective to locate optical brightener spots, oil marks and even sewing thread variations.<br />
<br />
• Many garments are cut and sewn from previously prepared/finished fabrics (such as water repellants, fire retardants, fluorocarbon, silicone softeners or resins), which may impact the dying process.<br />
This is a typical case and all garment dyers would regularly face this type of incidents. A better solution is to dye one or two random pieces in a sample garment dyeing machine and get the party's approval. <br />
<br />
• Many garments are assembled using several different types of fabric. Dye saturation levels and shrinkage may differ between fabric types (even if it is all cotton, as in Greige cotton and bleached cotton combinations) causing unpredictable results.<br />
As told for the earlier point the only suggestion to make a sample dyeing and find out the final effect and get the approval of the concerned party.<br />
<br />
• The garment dyer has no idea in most cases what is present on the garment or how it will behave in the dyeing process. Even on well prepared cloth there will be residual oils, fats, waxes, sizes on woven goods, spinning oils, etc, all of which should be removed to be able to dye successfully.<br />
<br />
• Also to be taken into consideration is the shrinkage, creases, threads, labels and buttons.<br />
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non- matching threads, and missing stitches, improper creasing of the garment, erroneous thread tension and raw edges are some of the sewing defects which can affect the garment quality adversely. During processing the quality control section needs to check each prepared article against these defects.nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-9564388523529503592010-08-31T04:59:00.000-07:002010-09-01T02:36:36.052-07:00Reductive Bleaching For Denim Garments - Less Rejections & Excellant SoftnessA large part of denim garments are subjected to processes that make them aged or old or worn out. This aged effect is generally obtained by a hypochlorite or peroxide bleaching of the garment or by stone washing or by an enzymatic bleaching treatment with the help of cellulase enzymes. In all the above cases the garment processors land up with the following problems:<br />
<ul><li>No uniformity in ageing or fading of shades; generally out of 100 garment pieces about 10 to 15 may got over bleached or under bleached due to the aggressive nature of the bleaching agents used.</li>
<li>Generally the bleached garments become very harsh to feel. Every time a a softening treatment is required.</li>
<li>If enzymes such as cellulase are used, they have to be deactivated to stop the process at the required stage.</li>
</ul>But all the above said problems can be over come by your own home made Reductive Bleaching Agent.<br />
<br />
How to make an effective Reductive Bleaching Agent?<br />
<br />
What are the chemicals or ingrediant required for making this?<br />
<br />
Its very simple.<br />
<br />
Ingredients and 2 formulas:<br />
<br />
<b>For Making 100 kgs of Reductive Bleaching Agent -1.</b><br />
<br />
<ul><li>Liquid Glucose = 850 grams</li>
<li>Non-ionic Detergent = 40 grams (100% Ethoxylate Based fatty alcohol poly glycolic ethers)</li>
<li> Ammonium Sulphate = 110 grams (You can use Ammonium Chloride, acetate, citrate)</li>
</ul>All mixed together gives 1kg of Type-1 Reductive Bleaching Agent.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>For Making 100 kgs of Reductive Bleaching Agent -2.</b><br />
<br />
<ul><li>Liquid Glucose = 830 grams</li>
<li>Non-ionic Detergent = 70 grams (100% Lauric Acid Based n-methy glucomide)<br />
</li>
<li> Sodium Citrate = 80 grams </li>
<li>Sodium Perborate = 20 grams </li>
</ul><br />
<b>Bleaching Treatment:</b><br />
<br />
Treat the the materials to be bleached with sufficient quantity of caustic soda lye so that the pH of the bath is 13 to 14 at 90°C for 15 minutes. To this bath add 0.15% to 0.2% of the above Reductive Bleaching formulation. Continue treatment at 90°C for 80 minutes.<br />
<br />
Drain the bath. Do 1 cycle cold wash followed by mineral acid neutralization. (About 3 to 5 gpl of HCl (35%) may be used for neutralization. Go Cold wash thoroughly to ensure complete removal of mineral acid.Hydro Extract and tumble dry.<br />
<br />
You will get uniformly aged/worn out denim garments with good soft feel.<br />
<br />
(Try these experiments for a very small batch and adjust the recipes according to your actual requirements).nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-31089725205405901862010-07-28T05:14:00.000-07:002010-08-19T03:27:46.986-07:00Heat Sensitive Thermochromic dyes on Garments - a special effect!<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTV_ADHIcsq5fjwYHk-bOgLbLSU37z0m_ls019PNeUnZpwsZJFdejhkxVMajXVrxtAr4JDo44An0e1ULvOXROWsNAT2DxS8nqPzhCInTeCmTxr27_QeI-2jYgVfPFqxRoXL9pD-cFr6D38/s1600/photochromic-dyeing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTV_ADHIcsq5fjwYHk-bOgLbLSU37z0m_ls019PNeUnZpwsZJFdejhkxVMajXVrxtAr4JDo44An0e1ULvOXROWsNAT2DxS8nqPzhCInTeCmTxr27_QeI-2jYgVfPFqxRoXL9pD-cFr6D38/s320/photochromic-dyeing.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Thermochromic colors:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">Color changing inks were introduced during the 1970s with novelty items such as cups that change color when not liquids such as coffee or tea are poured in to them.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">Color changes of thermo chromic pigments are induced by a temperature change. When temperature rises to a specific temperature, the color changes. The color starts fading back to the original color as the pigment is cooled down. </span><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Application of thermo chromic color on garment:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">There are fifteen thermo chromic colors like Americos Red, Magenta, Vermilion, Orange, Yellow, Yellow Green, Charm Green, Sky Blue, Turq Blue, Dark Blue, Violet, and Black. The temperature interval available from 0<sup>O</sup>C to 70<sup>O</sup>C. Specific demand can be set up for different temperature intervals from 2<sup>O</sup>C to 10<sup>O</sup>C.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span> </div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">By using the above colors another color can be obtained but use different colors of thermo chromic pigments with the same temperature range to create more colors. Regular pigments can also be mixed with thermo chromic pigment so that the color can be changed from one to another. At lower temperature, the color reveals matched shade. When the temperature is increased, the thermo chromic pigments start fading to colorless. It only shows color of the regular pigments. By mixing the thermo chromic pigments with different temperature ranges, the color can be varied for more than two colors like temperature ranges for 3 color variation.</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These t-shirts and other garments can change color by wearing or touching them. The heat from your body, hand or the environment makes this clothing change color. Once cooled the fabric changes back to the original color.</span><br />
<br />
</div>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-11018511156311022282010-07-28T05:07:00.000-07:002010-07-28T05:18:55.439-07:00Sun Fading dyes and special effect garments<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">SUN FADING - Photochrmic dyes on garments</span></b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Photo chromic color changes from clear when indoors to color when taken out-doors. The phenomenon produced in Photo chromic materials is called photochromism, where the change in color is due to incident light. Specifically, they exhibit color in response to exposure to sunlight or other source of UV radiation. UV light changes the chemical structure of the photo chromic material and makes it absorb color like a dye. It then reverts to a clear state when the UV source is removed.</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVnLf31qTGVhmaF-1xQXl3a_E8FZwV3gz3a7MC6b8XmMbLx9-zhyAHN7Vjz5QRnOz-LhPyOs1Lcmq2CX64Ew_xrFti63SgusafC1RfO1N42rHAt6wBe_a2_g9k1yV3f1TcogZHTQH3F5tr/s1600/photochromic-printing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVnLf31qTGVhmaF-1xQXl3a_E8FZwV3gz3a7MC6b8XmMbLx9-zhyAHN7Vjz5QRnOz-LhPyOs1Lcmq2CX64Ew_xrFti63SgusafC1RfO1N42rHAt6wBe_a2_g9k1yV3f1TcogZHTQH3F5tr/s320/photochromic-printing.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">However, to date, photochromism is most important for optical switching data and imaging systems, rather than in textile applications.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Application of photo chromic colors on garment:</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now photo chromic colors are plastisol based ready to use off-white liquid are available in the market. When exposed to UV radiation, color appears. These colors are available in various hues.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Photo chromic colors can be applied on garment by three methods:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• Spray</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• Brush</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">• Screen Print</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">In all the above methods, photo chromic colors are directly applied on garment and cured at 1500C for 30-90 seconds.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">These t-shirts and other garments can change color by wearing or touching them. The heat from your body, hand or the environment makes this clothing change color. Once cooled the fabric changes back to the original color.</span><br />
<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The ghost printed t-shirts have color changing screen prints when exposed to sunlight. The screen print appears as a black and white image with color highlights when indoors but once you go outside into the sun it appears in full color.</span>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-19870076779553155472010-07-28T03:21:00.000-07:002010-07-28T03:32:35.736-07:00Teflon Treated Garments - stain resistant<b>Denim Treated with Teflon</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRQey4CHNZvH5O9YZBVDaNE3aziD0k6WIc75GzmH9gph7hqQZ5OiXKQ1KIpxmebnCErqSafQUWqvYVE9sStFjdU6RcjT-MBmYQKyIHbYIZCgL_WLuAnv1oamMkMSPWaUkjkQCGMryMyzk/s1600/teflon-treated-t-shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRQey4CHNZvH5O9YZBVDaNE3aziD0k6WIc75GzmH9gph7hqQZ5OiXKQ1KIpxmebnCErqSafQUWqvYVE9sStFjdU6RcjT-MBmYQKyIHbYIZCgL_WLuAnv1oamMkMSPWaUkjkQCGMryMyzk/s200/teflon-treated-t-shirt.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Cotton is the most highly demanded fiber on the planet and is prized for its absorbent qualities, comfort, ease of wear, and versatility. Although a popular choice for many differing articles of clothing, there is one problem with the versatile fabric, it is extremely prone to soiling. Everything from chocolate to oil to red wine instantly stains the fabrics made from this fiber and are sometimes tricky to remove. This is where Teflon comes in to save the day. Teflon is part of advanced stain repellent technology that provides excellent protection against liquid spills and stains.<br />
<br />
Teflon, also known as Polytetrafluoroethyhlene, was discovered in 1938 by the DuPont Company in their Jackson laboratory and is at the forefront of stain resistant innovations. The technology of Teflon is simple. The molecular make-up of chemicals binds around the individual cotton fibers instantly repelling oil and water based stains and releasing ground in dirt and natural stains during the laundering process. The molecules that make up Teflon are hydrophilic or water loving and they attract water and detergent into the fabric, liberating the stains into the wash leaving the fabric looking bright and clean. This new technology for repelling stains uses "nano-whiskers" that are adhered to the individual fibers and cause liquids to bead or roll off of the surface of the fabric. The stain does not adhere with the fibers and therefore soiling is minimal (Kadolph, 369). It is quite remarkable and clearly the best stain repellent out there.<br />
<br />
Teflon creates a completely stain-resistant fabric that still has the natural drape, color, or breathability of similar untreated fabrics and that is something that people are willing to pay for. <b>Denim is the perfect fabric</b> for Teflon treatment because of its diverse market of consumers, versatile end uses, and the wide range of environmental factors that it is exposed to every day. It needs to be wearable, functional, and long lasting; all characteristics that are enhanced by Teflon treatments. Denim may be used for a tablecloth, a pair of jeans, or even a backpack and although each of these products requires different things from a fabric; they all need to be stain resistant. Cotton and Teflon are a perfect blend of style and function for daily life due to their combined ease of wear, soft hand, versatility, stain resistance, and breathability.nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-48486723786825985432010-07-28T03:16:00.000-07:002010-07-28T05:26:02.235-07:00Sanded Finish of Denim Garment<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Sanded Denim - fashion of the day!</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoaU30WVPUogWqkVeeXMIhBHNk6rcEFhqHEXtnypCEx0wWJC5NScP4oJdz9EkIWKJYU3gX2aGwpsdppRjhbdcZ6ZXJtr0pdnlvfdGP53V4YtQRCPaSVJsqAq3mknOH8aYl3R4tpYK1yAcs/s1600/SandDenim.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoaU30WVPUogWqkVeeXMIhBHNk6rcEFhqHEXtnypCEx0wWJC5NScP4oJdz9EkIWKJYU3gX2aGwpsdppRjhbdcZ6ZXJtr0pdnlvfdGP53V4YtQRCPaSVJsqAq3mknOH8aYl3R4tpYK1yAcs/s200/SandDenim.gif" width="200" /></a></div>A sanded finish for denim is achieved through a combination of pumice stones, enzymes and sand; used to create the illusion of aged denim jeans. Although the purpose of this is generally for aesthetics, this process also loosens the fibers in the denim, making the denim fit more comfortably and move more easily. Sanding jeans creates an uneven, worn look, which is ideal for daily casual wear, and also for pairing with solid colors or denim jackets . However, it is very labor intensive to sand finish denim, therefore a pair of jeans that has been sand finished will usually be slightly more expensive than one that has not . It is a necessity to finish denim in order to get a final soft touch. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Most denims are enzyme washed or stonewashed for an overall softness, however, it is essential to sand-wash, or sandblast, for a more strategically placed worn and frayed finish . The picture on the next page displays what a sand-finished pair of jeans looks like. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">There are many types of finishes for jeans, and sand finishing is just one of the many ways to make denim more aesthetically pleasing the eye. This type of finish became popular around the 1980's, and is still a huge trend today because of it's ability to make jeans look and feel more versatile. Although there are many ways to go about finishing jeans, sanded finishes continue to prove to be a popular choice among consumers throughout the years</span>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-80198374502021299002010-07-28T02:24:00.000-07:002010-07-28T02:37:30.080-07:00Garment Enzyme Washing Procedure<b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">CELLULASE ENZYME </span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stones are not only abrasive to garments but also to the equipment. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSGaeVgAzA9qteHoLmwk_wxUonvTO-DE90foT7PR5QdyJYpop9Ymh-ZVknPu2Bg5h6y8NvRKujorIBJF_3lfoI6ol0-bILwHZBcypU77x6OS6uSM9icriCTz8AhLBl7hyJ2PuNTnl7E0bd/s1600/enzyme-washed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSGaeVgAzA9qteHoLmwk_wxUonvTO-DE90foT7PR5QdyJYpop9Ymh-ZVknPu2Bg5h6y8NvRKujorIBJF_3lfoI6ol0-bILwHZBcypU77x6OS6uSM9icriCTz8AhLBl7hyJ2PuNTnl7E0bd/s320/enzyme-washed.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Stones can create sludge in waste treatment systems. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cellulase enzyme is a particular strain of enzyme derived from micro</span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">organisms selective to cotton form of cellulose and not to starch. They attack </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1 - 4 beta glucoside linkages </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">resulting in reduced molecular weight and therefore </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">removal of surface fiber. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Main factors that control enzyme washing:</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1 - pH </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">2- temperature </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">3- time </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4 - concentration </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">5 - mechanical action </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Once the reaction takes place, the mechanical action between garments and </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">equipment as well as between garments femoves weaker fibers resulting a cleaner, </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">smoother surface. Stones may be added to enhance the abrasion. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR CELLULASE ENZYME WASHDOWN </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">(TWO STEP PROCEDURE) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Load garments (addition of stones optional) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Desize for starch </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- alpha-amalase enzyme or </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- oxidative desize </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Rinse </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Adjust pH to 4.5 - 5.0 with </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- acetic acid or </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> a buffer system </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Heat to 50 to 60 C ( 122 - 140 F) </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Add cellulase enzyme </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tumble for 30 - 60 minutes </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">*Deactivation step - rinse hot > 65° C </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Rinse cold </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Soften and/or optically brighten </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Tumble dry </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">*Deactivation of the cellulase enzyme to prevent further weight reduction </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">can be done by temperatures in excess of 60 C (140 F) and/or at a pH </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">higher than 5.0. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Cellulase enzymes may be used as an aftertreatment to clean up surfaces of </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">garments which have become fuzzy during garment dyeing. The shade </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">of the dyed garments may change which requires preliminary lab work to </span><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">determine if this will be a problem or not. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></span>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-51915564956637823512010-07-28T02:11:00.000-07:002010-07-28T02:14:30.567-07:00Acid Washing of Denim Garments - an over view!<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>ACID WASH </b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Acid wash is also considered to produce an worn-out effect that is harsher than stone wash. This treatment is mainly being carried out on denim and coarser varieties of garments.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicn112DavM2Tzag56KDpY0J7nHMSB-emME0DKePEdjZ3Ak0-Ulj1361K2uBf7B45GJYicOCeOKRX4np91fOUtgUuIlA7pqXaSQb26_MlT0Gq1VmzJRAdmxcUu-ma5HtrCAlZi46IVGc2qL/s1600/acid-washed-denim-pant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicn112DavM2Tzag56KDpY0J7nHMSB-emME0DKePEdjZ3Ak0-Ulj1361K2uBf7B45GJYicOCeOKRX4np91fOUtgUuIlA7pqXaSQb26_MlT0Gq1VmzJRAdmxcUu-ma5HtrCAlZi46IVGc2qL/s320/acid-washed-denim-pant.jpg" width="236" /></a></div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>Acid wash is also known as Ice wash, Snow Wash and White wash. </li>
</ul><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>In acid wash a complete discharge or removal of color possible </li>
</ul><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>Uses pumice rocks, bleaching agents and dyestuffs that are sensitive to the bleaching agents.</li>
</ul><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>Porous rocks that have a medium to high dusting capability are soaked in solutions of bleaching agents such as sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate. The chemical is absorbed and is transferred by the cutting action of the rocks and deposited with the dust onto the garment surfaces. </li>
</ul><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Some more points a garment washer should take care of during acid wash:</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
- Rocks must have ability to </div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>absorb chemistry in less than 2 hours </li>
<li>dust easily </li>
<li>apply dust evenly on smooth surfaces and on high peaks of garment such </li>
<li>around cuffs, waist band, fly, side seams, etc. and not in recessed spaces </li>
<li>in those same areas. </li>
</ul><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- Load size in pounds of garments should only be 25 - 33% of rated capacity to allow for free tumbling of the garments and stones and for proper drop distance. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- Ratio of the weight of the stones to the garments should be <br />
0.5 : 1 for a light wash out <br />
3 : 1 for a complete white out <br />
<br />
<b>Procedure for Acid Washing:</b><br />
1) Load (25 - 33% rated capacity) <br />
2) Desize for starch with alpha-amalase enzyme or oxidative desize <br />
3) Rinse <br />
4) Extract to a certain uniform moisture <br />
60 - 70% light frost <br />
70 - 90% medium frost <br />
90 - 100% heavy frost (white-out) <br />
5) Add presoaked stones (machine should be dry) with ratio dependent </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">6) Tumble for 10 - 30 minutes <br />
7) Remove garments <br />
8) Neutralize <br />
9) Soften and/or brighten upon desired effect (0.5-3.0 : 1, stones to garments) <br />
10) Tumble dry </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Some more points about Acid Washing:</b></div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>Stones should be allowed to drip or blotted with waste fabric to remove <br />
excess solution to prevent spotting. Stones can be used up to three times <br />
in some cases before resoaking is necessary.</li>
<li> Neutralization usually takes place in another machine and the exact proced <br />
ure is dependent on the discharge agent used.<br />
Potassium permanganate (KMnO and purple in solution ) converts <br />
to manganese dioxide (MnO which is orange-brown in color) <br />
which must be neutralized with sodium bisulfite or hydroxylamine <br />
sulfate ((NH OH) H SO ). </li>
</ul>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-13727415381372090182010-07-28T00:40:00.000-07:002010-07-28T01:01:34.656-07:00Simple Garment Stone Washing Procedure<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">STONE WASH </span></b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This is just a process to abrade the surface of the garments randomly with the help of stones to get different worn-out effects, especially used on denim garments. According to the required severity of effect, the size, amount of stones and the duration of process would change.<br />
<br />
</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvwDwR1YgZywfLoW0fjb2sSdMFQrk9RBEH_Ahyphenhyphenaq55GqS1RIgRTMStat3lrLJzPw84PPmSLeGrIdj8gLdfaU32V8bd6JMfB2HUWQa-S0HluyQlatNpqM5eMa4rIF-aKDgZvjC2aGET4vMF/s1600/denim-t-shirt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvwDwR1YgZywfLoW0fjb2sSdMFQrk9RBEH_Ahyphenhyphenaq55GqS1RIgRTMStat3lrLJzPw84PPmSLeGrIdj8gLdfaU32V8bd6JMfB2HUWQa-S0HluyQlatNpqM5eMa4rIF-aKDgZvjC2aGET4vMF/s200/denim-t-shirt.JPG" width="150" /></a></div><b>Stones Type:</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>pumice rock </li>
<li>volcanic rock </li>
<li>man-made substrates </li>
</ul><b><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Property of Stones: </span></b><br />
<ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"></ul><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li>Hardness of stones</li>
<li>Size of stones</li>
<li>Shape of stones</li>
<li>Porosity of stones</li>
<li>Dusting ability of stones</li>
</ul><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>Applications </b></div><ul style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><li><span style="font-size: small;">large, hard stones which last longer for heavy fabrics </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">smaller, softer stones for lightweight and more delicate fabrics </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">ratio of stone weight to fabric weight = 021 up to 3:l </span></li>
</ul><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>TYPICAL PROCEDURE FOR STONE WASHING</b> </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">1- Load garments and stones ( load to 30-50% of normal machine capacity) </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">2- Desize if needed with </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- detergent plus enzyme for starch </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">- oxidative desize </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">3- Rinse </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">4- Stone wash (with or without bleaching agent) </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">5- Rinse </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">6- Soften </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">7- Extract </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">8- Unload garments, remove stones from garments </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">9- Tumbledry </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Notes: </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">a- Backstaining or color deposition can be reduced by a- adding dispersantlsuspension agent to wash cycle </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">b- intermediate replacement of wash liquor </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">c. use of alkaline detergent (sodium perborate with optical brightener </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">as an afterwash </div>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-77951183101845496522010-07-27T23:33:00.000-07:002010-07-28T00:05:24.191-07:00Facinating Rust Dyeing of Garments!<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b>What Is Rust Dyeing?</b><br />
Rust dyeing is an easy, fascinating way to dye fabric. You can dye wonderful imprints on cotton, silk, wool or even synthetic fibers using rusty “stuff.” <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij5iE7HIp5Ju1hFS24ZiYypfoQXueWSG0s9ZX-r4qoEzOCJDhu-U2yz6a78sGVXib5QSuMO-J0xWkYL3R-SYKdA30qIbD9EHmkjO-GiJXe0BqFvYBr1qVoaF4Jke1MQ9o2Yb2zGrOCPLBA/s1600/rust-dyeing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij5iE7HIp5Ju1hFS24ZiYypfoQXueWSG0s9ZX-r4qoEzOCJDhu-U2yz6a78sGVXib5QSuMO-J0xWkYL3R-SYKdA30qIbD9EHmkjO-GiJXe0BqFvYBr1qVoaF4Jke1MQ9o2Yb2zGrOCPLBA/s320/rust-dyeing.jpg" /></a></div><b>You can dye: </b><br />
• Cotton quilting fabric <br />
• Silk scarves and shawls <br />
• Flannel fabric for sewing <br />
<br />
<b>What Is Rust and does it rust?</b><br />
Rust is the common word for several naturally occurring iron oxides. These iron oxides are formed by the corrosion of iron or steel; this corrosion happens when iron is exposed to oxygen and water. <br />
<br />
Rust will permanently dye a variety of fabrics, and can even dye other materials such as leather and paper. The resulting fabric is completely colorfast, washable and totally unique.<br />
<br />
<b>How Does It Work?</b><br />
The rust-dyeing process is extremely simple. When a rusty object is in contact with fabric, fiber or paper, it leaves an imprint. We place our rusty items on our fabric, wet it with water and vinegar to hasten the oxidization (rusting) process, and leave the fabric and rusty item together until we are satisfied with the color or pattern. Then we remove the item, wash the fabric and use it however we choose! The whole process takes only a few days and requires little effort.</div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
<b>What do you need?</b><br />
Only a few simple items are needed for rust dyeing. To begin dyeing, you should assemble: <br />
• Fabric <br />
• Plastic kitchen gloves <br />
• Spray bottle filled with a mixture of 50 percent water and 50 percent vinegar <br />
• Plastic bags or wrap (optional) <br />
• Plastic bin, box or tray <br />
• Rusty items or steel wool pads (new ones are fine) <br />
<br />
You can found that cotton and silk are the best fabrics for dyeing, but you can experiment with cotton blends. Even some synthetic fibers will dye well; you can experiment to find out which ones. Wool fabric will take dye, but the rust tends to color it a bit harshly; a wool/cotton blend can be a better choice, if that works for your project.<br />
<br />
Find, buy or assemble a collection of rusty items. Wire, nails, bolts, tools, sprockets, pans, cooking items, irons, tractor or car parts, chain, hinges… the list is endless! And once you begin rust dyeing, you’ll be scouting garage sales, thrift stores, antiques shops and auctions for uniquely-shaped or –patterned rusty items. You can also use brand-new or used (but clean) steel wool pads. You can use these items over, and over, and over again.<br />
<br />
You can even rust non-rusty iron items. I found a bike sprocket that was in pristine condition, but I wanted it to rust! I put it outside in a shallow pan with a bit of salt, water, and vinegar, and in a few weeks, it was fabulously rusty and ready for dyeing.<br />
<br />
<b>Some more points to consider:</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
You can use white cloth for the purest rust colors and clearest designs, but don’t be afraid to experiment with colored or even patterned fabrics. Scraps of sewing or quilting fabrics in assorted colors are wonderful for rust dyeing; you can achieve batik-like effects and wonderful color shifts by over dyeing colored fabrics.<br />
<br />
Look for neutral-colored natural fiber shirts, t-shirts, skirts, tablecloths, or fabric scraps at garage sales or thrift stores. These can be turned into one-of-a-kind designer works of art with the application of a little rust. <br />
<br />
<b>Follow these steps: </b><br />
• Assemble your items on a workspace. <br />
• You may want to cover your table or bench with plastic bags or wrap. <br />
• Rust will also dye your clothes, so wear old clothes that you don’t mind staining. <br />
• Always wear gloves (kitchen gloves are perfect) when handling rusty items. It’s safer, cleaner, and protects your hands from both discoloration and scrapes or scratches. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><br />
</b><br />
<b>If you want specific imprints from your rusty items:</b><br />
• Lay your fabric flat in a plastic box or tray. <br />
• Lightly spray your fabric with the vinegar/water mixture. <br />
• Place your rusty items on the fabric in any pattern you like. <br />
• Place another piece of fabric on top. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
Keep your fabric slightly moist for the next few days; this will help the rust designs to develop. (Tip: Weight down the fabric with small items such as rocks or bottles if you want to make your imprint clearer.)<br />
<br />
You can lay a plastic bag or sheet lightly over the fabric, but you also want to make sure air can reach the fabric as well. Oxygen is necessary for the rust to develop.<br />
<br />
My favorite way to rust-dye is to leave the items outside, uncovered, for a few rainy or humid days! <br />
<br />
<b>Here are some more dyeing options:</b><br />
• Roll or wrap your fabric around rusty items; if you have a rusty pot or kettle, you can wad the fabric up and stuff it inside the pot or kettle. <br />
• If you’re using steel wool, unroll it and wrap or fold it into your fabric, or cut it into strips, pieces or bits, and place or sprinkle them onto your fabric. <br />
• you can even bundle rusty chain, wire, nails and other small items willy-nilly into fabric, and put it all in a plastic bucket or bag for fantastic results. </div><div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><br />
The important thing is to make sure that the rusty items are in contact with the fabric—that’s how the dyeing occurs. This process can be as planned or as random as you like. And you cannot fail – if you don’t like your results, you can simply dye your fabric again with more rusty items.<br />
<br />
<b>Length of the Dyeing Process</b><br />
Check your fabric once a day or so; make sure it’s damp, and see how the color is developing. <br />
<br />
For light colors, you may only want to leave your dyeing project for one day. <br />
<br />
For very dark intense color, you might leave it for 4 or 5 days. <br />
<br />
If left too long, the rust can eventually damage the fabric, especially if it is thin or delicate (I’ve left silk too long and it developed holes). However, if you check your fabric every day or so, you should not have any problems. <br />
<br />
Rust dyeing is most suitable during summer, as the rusting takes place more quickly than at other times.<br />
<br />
Rust dyeing does damage the integrity of fabrics slightly; however, I have found my rust-dyed fabrics perfectly suitable for crafting, wearing, quilting and sewing. Items with very strong or dark rust-dye will be more difficult to sew, simply because your needle will dull quickly.<br />
<b><br />
Finishing Your Dyeing Process</b><br />
When you are satisfied with the color and patterning of your fabric, remove the rusty items and keep them for use in your next project. <br />
<br />
Next, immerse the fabric in a light saline solution; this completely stops the rusting process and neutralizes the fabric. For the solution, I use about one tablespoon of salt in a gallon of water. <br />
<br />
Then wash the fabric as normal – if it’s silk or wool, hand wash with Nunonwet-con 0.5 gpl liquid and rinse thoroughly. If it’s a cotton or synthetic, you may machine wash and dry as normal.</div>nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5302993462247363671.post-52154853868756089652010-07-27T23:15:00.000-07:002010-07-28T00:19:19.004-07:00Fancy effects on garments - some tips on T-Shirt dyeing<span style="font-size: small;"></span><br />
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</style> </m:defjc></m:rmargin></m:lmargin></m:dispdef></m:smallfrac></div><div class="MsoNoSpacing"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The best method for tie-dye!<o:p></o:p></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJVXACm6FQSzoP1i1KZu7DJkN-isXazLt0dE8Nfbc6D4XJnsjhtO7FiTXDWa2n83L8zKzSlp4WQPqKzr9_77hxL74scjtwbU5mVbPGnKA_vLkN-I_epBFOrj7_gdC3l_Tz0_KT074L5rC/s1600/tie-dye-t-shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigJVXACm6FQSzoP1i1KZu7DJkN-isXazLt0dE8Nfbc6D4XJnsjhtO7FiTXDWa2n83L8zKzSlp4WQPqKzr9_77hxL74scjtwbU5mVbPGnKA_vLkN-I_epBFOrj7_gdC3l_Tz0_KT074L5rC/s320/tie-dye-t-shirt.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Generally tie-dye is a method of dyeing in which the fabric is tied securely as per the design requirement, to prevent the dye to reach the tied portion. People used to fold, twist, stitch, crumple and knot to inhibit the flow of dye. Presently all folding, twisting, knotting etc., is done starting with a wet garment spread flat on a plastic sheet covered table. The pattern of the folds etc. and where the colors are squirted dictates the resulting design. With experience, the end result can be predicted and controlled to some extent, but surprise is part of what makes tie-dye an exciting and interesting art form - and there will be plenty of surprise.</span></span><br />
<br />
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<ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Fold and/or tie the fabric into the desired patterns. The designs will be more defined if you wet the shirt and squeeze or spin out excess water before folding.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Wear your dust mask and dissolve 250 grams <span style="color: black;">of Soda Ash Fixer</span> per 4 liters of warm water. Soak the tied garments about 5-15 minutes (until saturated). Reuse solution until gone. Squeeze out excess so garment is just damp, not dripping.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Using your dust mask and gloves, combine water with all chemicals except dye. Add liquid to dye gradually, pasting up to avoid lumps. Apply dye with squeeze bottles, paint brushes, sponges, etc., as many colors as you want. Easiest to use a funnel to pour dissolved dye into squeeze bottles.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Put fabric (still tied) in a plastic bag (the idea is to keep it wet and chemically active - any method of keeping it wet is O.K.) and let sit for at least 4 hours but preferably 24 hours to "cure". Shorter times work better in summer, and longer times are needed when it is cold.</span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Remove from bag and while still tied, rinse off the excess dye under cold running water (faucet, hose or shower), then rinse in warmer water while you untie and after garments are untied, until water runs fairly clear. Have your washing machine pre-filled with hot water with Nunonwet-con and throw in the clothing as soon as it is rinsed, running it through a full cycle.<br />
</span> </li>
</ol><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"> <b>Some more tips on tie-dyeing:</b></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">Dye shirt a solid color first using Tub Dyeing Method, then tie-dye using above method. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• After step 4, untie and re-tie in contrasting pattern. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• After tie-dyeing item, re-tie and use Discharge paste to bleach out a contrasting pattern. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• Sprinkle pure Cotfix Vinylsulphone dye powder onto tied and pre-soaked item for different effect (super intense color. Use a salt shaker with lots of salt and some dye for a lighter application) </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• Put a small amount of Sodium Alginate thickener into dye mixture (step 3) to slow down the rate that the dye spreads and to create sharper edges. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-create.do" name="OLE_LINK6"></a><a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-create.do" name="OLE_LINK5">•</a> In step 4 any method keeping the fabric wet is OK, needn't be a plastic bag - cover many with plastic drop cloth, wrap in plastic wrap, etc. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• The warmer the temperature where you lay out your tie-dyes to cure, the quicker the chemical reaction. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• Use Water Softener if you suspect you have "hard" water. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• DON’T USE HOT WATER. The dyes work best in warm water (60°C).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• Urea helps dye to dissolve, so dissolve the Urea in water first. Add this water to the dye powder gradually and paste it up to avoid lumps. Un-dissolved dye makes "explosions" of color or "freckles", so if a color is difficult to dissolve, straining through some light fabric might be necessary. Coffee filters only work if the dye is really liquid. Otherwise, they filter out too much of the dye. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small;">• If you have trouble making a paste of the colors, a little Calsolene Oil can help because it breaks the surface tension. </span></div><span style="font-size: small;"> <br />
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nuchemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08278535889219668874noreply@blogger.com1